Shots by Tommy Ton showcase the connection between the vibrant approach of New York streets and the propositions on the catwalks, from biker leather jackets, beanies, coats, the quintessential turtleneck and scotch plaids. What the known as ’emerging design’ seems to be more aware of.
Among the recent Fashion weeks schedule, New York has become the most prominent venue for the emerging. What’s known to be the biggest melting pot in the planet has become one of the greatest platforms for fresh names, where new talent has a place at heart, with the CFdA working on it, and business people believing in the young (talent and ideas).
With some London exceptions and under current recession, America through New York city and its fashion week still represents “The Dream” of making it big. The American fashion scene is heavily constituted by young people setting the trademarks of cosmopolitan societies, reinventing the clothes for urbanites: from street chic and making new proposals on how to wear the uniform ‘du jour’: head to toe black… To gowns, perfect for the opera, night galas or private soirees; clothes filled with the vibrant, sexy, fun and most importantly, the urban life values only a place like the big apple can put into game .
Designer presentations and everyday street life are ‘en route’ to talk the same language and pursue to achieve contemporary looks based on the classics of concrete jungles and all the things we (living in cities all over the world) really want : biker jackets, slim denim, sweatshirts, heavy knitted sweaters, parkas, utilitarian coats, lots of lapels, military green, black, white, minimalistic and structured approaches (as architectural) and layering.
The more luxurious takes on parkas and utilitarian pieces paired with short dresses, and the perfect touch of tough walking on concrete. Rag & Bone.
A towhouse, holding the reinterpretation of the comfortable and the thrifty, plus a coveted piece: the scottish creamy knit. The Row.
Shape, form, volume and concrete gray… Could this be more architectural? Proenza Schouler.
Melting pots?, layers of multiculturalism?, more of the comfy knits, the leather touches and thats how beanies stick to our heads for the rest of the year. BCBG.
Let’s intellectualize the sweatshirt.
Oh look! A not so new take on the Biker that still looks fresh… Jason Wu.
And yes women shall look sexy in sharp gowns, military green never fails, and gladiator ehm ‘boots’? Yeah thats the shoe of the season. Prabal Gurung.
Knee Length sandal/boots: for those who love their winter boots way to much and want a version of them with cutouts for spring. Prabal Gurung, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, BCBG Max Azria, and DKNY.
Alenxander Wang the young talented New York cult following name, that stepped into (the most brilliant designer in recent years) Nicholas Ghesquière’s shoes at Balenciaga.
Coincidentally, the most promising generation in American Fashion (with the big F) are these great American designers like Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Joseph Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung, Richard Chai or Jason Wu, with the exception of the dynamic duo ‘Proenza Schouler’ all of them happen to have an eastern background, (Thailand, China, Singapore, Korea…) Does this representation of Asians brought up in western multicultural spots, taking a bit of influence from there and knowledge from here, next to the booming of the luxury market in China or Japan representing a quarter of luxury sales worldwide have some effect on their late huge success?
A so-called eastern wave of designers lead (in big percentage) the path in occidental fashion design and they are all located on the western east coast fashion capital. The truth is Asia has influenced how the business of luxury is developing its strategies: from brand museums, to concept stores, and of course demanding young designers with innovative ideas that should scream louder everyday, in the market competition. Nowadays, this group share a point of view, palpable in common references, subversive hints, shapes, proportions with and edge and what you can define as the primary aesthetic of America, blending fashion, roomie and simple pieces, technical developments and popular references together in a pot known as New York Fashion Week.